A week in Siargao, between beaches, scooters and local vibes

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A week in Siargao, between beaches, scooters and local vibes

After a few days in Manila, we headed to Siargao.

To get there, we had to take two planes. A first to Cebu for a transit, then a second flight to Siargao. The last one is in a small plane, and upon arrival, we discover probably the smallest airport we have ever landed in. Everything is tiny. The conveyor belt for baggage claim is almost next to the runway, and it really feels like the suitcases go directly from the plane to the belt in a few seconds. It’s quite funny to see and it immediately puts you in the mood.

And once there, there’s a total change of atmosphere.

Everything is slower here. Simpler. More chill.

Siargao is a bit like the surfing reference of the Philippines. An island known for its waves, especially near General Luna, but also for this super relaxed vibe that makes you completely lose track of time. We thought we would stay calm... and in the end, we stayed there for a week without seeing the time pass.

We had booked the whole week at Malipaya Villas, and there, we fell in love. The concept is quite original, with only a few accommodations in the form of domes.

The place is located by the sea, very quiet, perfect for truly disconnecting. We had access to a shared swimming pool between the domes, and above all a private beach right in front… absolutely magnificent.

We quickly found our rhythm there. A good part of the day spent chilling at the villa or on the beach, enjoying the surroundings without doing anything, then we set off to explore the island or do an activity. It was a perfect balance between real disconnection and the desire to move. We alternated between very quiet moments at the “casa” and days wandering all over Siargao.

We also made a promise with Seb during this trip to continue moving as little as possible. So, we took a skipping rope with us. And quite often, every other day, we would do small sessions in front of our dome, where there was plenty of room for a bodyweight workout and a few rounds of jump rope. Simple, but effective to keep the rhythm.

Very quickly, we understood something essential. Here, without a scooter, you don't do much. So as soon as we arrived, we rented one, and it was clearly the best decision. We spent a lot of time exploring the island at our own pace, without a specific plan, just stopping when a place appealed to us.

In particular, we went up north to Alegria Beach, a magnificent beach, much wilder, then to Pacifico Beach, known for its waves and its even quieter side than the south.

We also did some island hopping from General Luna. The principle is quite simple, you board a traditional Filipino boat and you go to visit several small islands around Siargao, between sandbanks and swimming spots.

It was also the first time we got on this type of local boat. Visually, they are truly magnificent with their colors and their pendulums on the sides. On the other hand, they are also very noisy, the motors do not go unnoticed, so the experience is as much visual as aural.

On the water, we discover Naked Island, a simple strip of sand in the middle of the ocean, Daku Island, the largest of the three with its small local cabins and meals on the beach, and a third, more vegetated and quiet island where you can relax for a while.

On Daku, we still had a great experience with a “boodle fight”.

The boodle fight is a very friendly traditional Filipino meal. Everything is placed directly on a large banana leaf, without plates. Rice, fish, meat, vegetables, and everyone eats with their hands. Simple, but really cool experience.

We also tried a surfing session, just to live the experience to the end. We obviously had local instructors who have been surfing for years and who have lived on the island their whole lives. The atmosphere was super relaxed. They all know each other, chat with each other, make jokes at each other all the time. In the end, it was almost more a moment of sharing and fun in a group than a real structured course, and that’s precisely what made the experience even more enjoyable.

And then there is General Luna in the evening. Lots of small bars with live music almost everywhere. In the Philippines, they love it, and it completely changes the atmosphere. You go from one place to another, and each time there is someone playing or singing, which makes the evenings very lively.

We also discovered something quite remarkable on the island. There are a lot of stray dogs, really everywhere. On the roads, in villages, in front of shops. They are completely part of the landscape and daily life. It's surprising at first, then you get used to it very quickly.

Often, in the evening, we went to eat in carenderia, small local canteens. In general, it looks like a counter with several already cooked dishes displayed in bins. You arrive, you choose what you want, and we serve it to you with rice. It’s simple, quick and very local. Nothing fancy, but still very good, and above all super welcoming.

On the other hand, a little tip, there are almost never prices displayed, so you should always ask before to avoid the tourist price. We quickly learned two or three reflexes like that over the days, just to adapt a little more to local customs.

We also tasted the local beer, Red Horse, for the first time. A fairly strong beer, but really very good, well above the classic beers found almost everywhere. We clearly adopted it during our stay.

In the end, Siargao is exactly the kind of place where you come for a few days... and where you could stay for weeks without any problem.